Return to the BUILD

“This [pack] you receive the battery box and its cover, which will both be attached to the chassis. You will need to fit [three] AAA batteries into the battery box.”

This issue of the magazine is our last one, so only four more packs to build. Technically, there are no build steps for this pack, but we can get some addition work done here. Let’s get this model completed!



This image includes the parts for the entire issue. However, the parts included with this pack are:

  • Battery Box and Electrical Connection
  • Battery Cover

Materials: All of the non-electrical parts in this pack are plastic.

Magazine – Issue 22

  • Your Car Parts: Parts Guide
  • Start The Car: Model Instructions
  • Scene: Uncomfortable Presence
  • The Making of Spectre: Facing Up to the Past
  • Production: Day of the Dead
  • Bond Actors: Léa Seydoux


The Body

We do receive these two parts in this pack, but we will not be installing them just yet. However, we can start on attaching the body to the interior frame!

Step 1

Retrieve your Main Body Frame assembly from the previous pack and your Roof/Rear Section assembly from Pack 73.

We will need to turn the body upside down, so I used some painter’s tape to temporarily keep the Trunk closed:

Then, turn the Roof/Rear Section assembly over (I placed it on a folded towel to protect it) and tuck each of the taillight wires into this space on either side of the body. The instructions do not say anything about routing the lighting wires, so this is where I believe they should go:

We should have the plugs of both taillight wires and the white switch wire between the wheel arches, as shown:

Flip the Main Body Frame upside down as well, and carefully lower it down into the Roof/Rear Section assembly, as shown.

The instructions say to do this right side up, but I found it easier to do it with everything upside down. As we bring these together, make sure not to trap or pinch any wires (or the hanging seatbelts). You may also find it easier to join these assemblies if you temporarily pull the rear bumper Overriders out all the way:

Step 2

Secure the Rear Section to the Main Body Frame with four (4) Type A screws here, two on either side…

… and two (2) Type C screws here, one on either side:

Step 3

Connect the taillight and switch plugs to the PCB plugs, matching the wire colors.

I wrapped these three sets of wires around the others to hold them all together in an attempt to kind of bundle them together:

Once these plugs are connected, we can do a quick electronics test. First, install three AAA batteries (not supplied) in the Battery Box with Electronic Connection and connect the plug to the PCB plug (matching the wire colors) as shown. You will need to also turn on the main power switch in the trunk!

Next, we can press the main light switch on the Dashboard to turn the headlights and taillights on. You may need to press it twice.

We can even bring the Car Front Body assembly over and connect the headlight wiring plugs to see if they are working as well:

The rest of the electrical items can also be tested here:

  • If you slide one of the metal Keys from Pack 27 into the Ignition Switch, you should hear the engine start and run.
  • If you press the center of the Steering Wheel, the horn should sound.
  • If you press the accelerator pedal, the engine sound should rev up.
  • If you press the brake pedal, the taillights should get brighter. They will also come on bright with the main lights turned off.
  • The gauges in the Dashboard and the radar in the Monitor should light up.

If you are happy with this electrics test, disconnect the Battery Box (and Car Front Body assembly if you connected it) and set them aside for now.

Step 4

Aligning the two tabs at the base of the Windshield over the matching holes in the Main Body Frame crossmember as shown, and secure the front edge of the Roof down with two (2) Type G screws.

Since these screws are compressing the plastic Windshield, do not over-tighten them:

Step 5

Retrieve your Car Front Body assembly from Pack 79, open the doors to a 45° angle, and pull the front bumper Overriders out.

Before we start this step, I want to explain my routing of the headlight wires. Again, the instructions do not cover this at all. First, take note of these notches behind the front tires of the Main Body Frame. This is where I believe they should go:

Next, retrieve your Car Front Body assembly and turn it over. I ran both headlight wires up the fender and painter’s taped them like this:

Then, we can get the Car Front Body assembly ready to be attached by opening the doors to 45° and pulling out the front bumper Overriders:

Step 6

Carefully fit the Car Front Body assembly down over the engine bay are of the Main Body Frame, as shown.

I had to tilt the front of this assembly up and slide the rear of it under the front lip of the Windshield. It takes some wiggling and wrangling, but it will eventually sit down flush. Ensure that no wires get pinched.

Our friend over at YouTube, Wayne Green @ World of Wayne, offers this additional advice: “Locate and screw in the front 2 screws first. Don’t worry about the door ones just yet. If the front posts are located and seated correctly the rest should slip in to place. Also I removed the window frame while I did this stage and replaced it once it was fitted. Hope that helps!”

Our headlight wires should now be coming out from underneath on either side:

I recommend taping the hood closed, then while holding the Car Front Body in place, turn the entire car over. We can now route the headlight wires through those notches I mentioned earlier. I used a piece of black electrical tape on each to hold them down:

Step 7

While holding the Car Front Body in place, secure it to the Main Body Frame from below with four (4) Type A screws, as shown.

There are two screws underneath the headlight wires, one on each side:

And, the other two screws are installed under the front of the car:

Once this Car Front Body is secured, you can close the doors, push the front bumper Overriders back in, and we are done for now!


Both of the parts supplied in this pack are not used just yet, so keep them nearby until the next pack. Instead, I decided to rearrange some of the instructions so it makes the build go a little easier and we had something to do here. I hope it helps!

Next Up

Pack 84 – Chassis, Stabilizer, Wire Retainers, Washers

14 thoughts on “PACK 83”

  1. I needed to use two clamp to screw the front section into place because the machine screw wouldn’t bite into the metal, no matter how hard I pressed it together.

      1. Hi Ray,

        Did you ever figure this out? I am having this problem on the driver’s side but not on the left side.


    1. I have had several places where I didn’t have a screw large enough. So I got some #4 x 1/2 flat head screws. These have been my solution for securing the body front

  2. I’m having quite similar issues with the front part. I’m trying to align two of the screws but I can’t. I’m wondering how can I fit those little “pipes” into the holes, because all the base (under the door) must be aligned in order to close properly…

  3. Well this part of construction is a bear. I can’t get the rocker panels below the door (attached to the metal chassis) to match up with the bottom of the front fender. There is about a 2.5 mm gap between the bottom of the door and the top of the rocker panel and a 2.0 mm gap from the bottom of the rocker panel to the bottom of the front fender. Per Jason’s suggestion above I have been able to compress the gap out with a C-clamp, but the A screws are worthless to hold it together, they just refuse to bite. Per David’s suggestion above I’m going to get some #4 x 1/2″ self-threading screws and see if that will hold it together.

  4. Okay. Just done this stage. Here is the secret to getting this right first time. Locate and screw in the front 2 screws first. Don’t worry about the door ones just yet. If the front posts are located and seated correctly the rest should slip in to place. Also I removed the window frame while I did this stage and replaced it once it was fitted. Hope that helps

  5. I have tested the electrics the horn works the engine works it revs the radar lights up the head lights work But only the right rear light works The Left rear an the indicators Don’t Work Can This problem be fixed

    1. I would check the plug connection to the Main Circuit Board is connected firmly and correctly, then check the wires to make sure they did not get pinched or broken.

  6. The type A screw cannot secure the rear section to the main body frame tightly. It seems that the screw is too short. What can I do ?

    1. I don’t remember having an issue with the A screws at the rear of the car. It could be that something (a part, wire, or plug) is interfering with the rear section sitting flush inside the body?

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