Return to the BUILD

“The final stage of assembling your DB5 is to fit the rear wheels and chassis to the main body, before adding the finishing touches, such as the windscreen wipers and the removable roof panel.”

Gather up all of your DB5 components as we are about to finally put everything together!



This image includes the parts for the entire issue. However, the parts included with this pack are:

  • Left Windscreen Wiper
  • Right Windscreen Wiper
  • Rear Suspension Springs

Materials: In this pack, the Windshield Wipers are chromed plastic while the Rear Suspension Springs are metal.


Completing the Chassis & Exhaust

Step 1

Retrieve your Rear Axle assembly from Pack 66. Slide the Rear Suspension Springs over these two posts of the Rear Axle assembly:

Step 2

Retrieve your Chassis assembly from the previous pack. Fit the Transmission Shaft of the Rear Axle assembly up and through this hole of the Chassis assembly, as shown:

Step 3

Secure the Transmission Shaft to the Chassis with one (1) Type L screw.

Before attaching the Transmission Shaft, make sure your Supporting Linkages are facing forward and not caught under the Rear Axle, as shown:

Then, we can secure the front end of the Transmission Shaft:

Step 4

Align the Rear Suspension Springs into these raised circular areas under the Chassis on either side:

Retrieve the two Washers from the previous pack and, while holding the Rear Axle assembly in place, turn the entire Chassis over, and place the Washers over these holes:

Secure the Rear Axle assembly to the Chassis with two (2) Type Y screws.

You will have to compress the Rear Suspension Springs a bit to get the posts of the Rear Axle to poke up through the holes and get the screws into them:

Step 5

Turn the Chassis back over and bend the Stabilizer back a bit to fit its hollow slot over this pin at the back of the Rear Axle.

This step is not mentioned in the instructions:

Step 6

Align the Supporting Linkages to these two holes on the side of the Chassis and secure with two (2) Type W screws, one for each linkage:

The posts on the front end of each Linkage fits into these matching holes in the Chassis:

The screws go in from the other side:

Repeat this step on the other side of the Chassis using two (2) more Type W screws:

Step 7

Retrieve your Exhaust Pipes from Pack 82. Fit the screw posts of each pipe into the corresponding locations on the bottom of the Chassis.

I started with the rear sections of the Exhaust Pipes. These are different shapes, but will only match up the Chassis holes as shown:

While holding these pipes in place, secure them into place from the other side with four (4) Type Q screws:

Next, slide the straight ends of the Exhaust Pipe front sections into the holes of the mufflers and fit the screw posts to the matching locations on the Chassis. The longer one should be closer to the center of the car, as shown:

While holding these front sections in place, secure them to the Chassis with four (4) Type Q screws from the other side:

Final Assembly

Step 1

Retrieve your Body assembly. Bring the Body assembly close enough to the Chassis that you can connect the Battery Box and Electronic Connection to the PCB, matching the plugs by wire colors.

Once again, I found it easier to do this with both assemblies upside down (on a folded towel with the hood and trunk taped closed):

Step 2

Fit the Chassis to the underside of the car, aligning the front ends of the Exhaust Pipes to the engine’s Exhaust Manifold, as shown.

You will need to temporarily extend these rear bumper Overriders or else the Chassis will not fit correctly. Also, it will take a bit of trial and error to make sure all of your wiring fits under this Chassis. Just make sure nothing is being pinched:

The front Exhaust Pipes should fit into the engine’s Exhaust Manifold, as shown:

Secure the Chassis to the car from below with six (6) Type G screws at these locations…

… and two (2) Type C screws at these locations:

Step 3

Retrieve the Water Tank Part from Pack 37. Slide this part under the Radiator as shown and secure into place with two (2) Type R screws:

Step 4

Press the pins of the Windshield Wipers into the Car Front Body.

The two Windshield Wipers are not the same. The driver’s side Right Windshield Wiper has a straight wiper blade, while the passenger side Left Windshield Wiper has a curved wiper blade, as shown:

Step 5

Retrieve your Passenger Seat assembly from Pack 68. Fit it down through the Roof and onto the Ejector Mechanism until it latches.

The seat is supposed to engage on the Ejector Lever, but mine would not. I did test this mechanism before putting the Chassis in the car, and it worked, but I cannot get it to latch now. Pressing down on the Gear Stick should release this spring-loaded ejector and send the seat flying. However, I am just not that concerned about it now.

Step 6

Retrieve your Roof Panel from Pack 06 and place into the opening of the Roof.

For your own safety, remove this Roof Panel before operating the seat ejector mechanism!


And with that, our Eaglemoss 1:8 scale James Bond Aston Martin DB5 partwork build-up is now complete! There is still one more pack to go, but it is just a Cloth Car Cover to keep the dust off our model. I will post some final pictures and give my final thoughts in a future article.

Next Up

Pack 86 – Cloth Car Cover

12 thoughts on “PACK 85”

  1. I had the same issue with my ejector seat. If you look at the underside, there is a crossmember on the frame that has a bump in the center that presses on the ejector mechanism spring. I took a Dremel with a small grinding burr and removed some of the metal from the top of that bump in between the two pins (yes, I had to do a bit of disassembly to do this). That gave it enough relief that it is not pressing on the spring. The spring is not quite strong enough to get the seat to latch when it is pushed down. I tilt the model on its side and “help” the locking lever into position while pressing the seat down. This makes the seat latch, then the ejection mechanism works as intended to fire the seat.

  2. Did you have any trouble with the Rear Suspension Springs? Mine just won’t godown all the way!

  3. Anyone got any spare Type G screws so I can complete my build or suggest an alternative?
    My pack 81 did not contain any of the screws and Eaglemoss are unable to supply any screws like that

  4. Hi a’m after a driver’s side windscreen wiper as I have one missing. Anyone any idea’s on where to acquire one as on eBay are wanting ridicules prices?
    Thanks T.S.

  5. I am finally done with my db5.Thank you for this instruction and screw chart,they helped a lot.I had my share of problems,wrong parts,bad parts and missing parts.The car seems to have 3 different shades of paint.The speaker only worked for about 5 seconds and sounded horrible,instead of taking it back apart I used a speaker from a talking Mr. spock mcDonalds toy and mounted it in by the battery box drilling 5 small holes toward the differential.It sounds pretty good!Still even with the problems I enjoyed the build. I couldn’t believe how many screws I had left. Thanks again for all the help!

    1. Nice work, congrats, and you are very welcome! The DB5 is by far the roughest partwork build I have done, but it does make for a beautiful model.

  6. Ich würde den James Bond Modell Bau und Harnisch Kern abbauen. Ist es mir möglich dieses machen zu dürfen oder zu können geben Sie mir doch darauf eine Antwort das wäre sehr nett ihrerseits, danke schön Peter aus Darmstadt Germany

  7. Thanks so much for your website and build instructions and screw information. I’ve just finished mine and I’m really liking how it turned out.

  8. After about six years, a bunch of starts-and-stops, finding replacements parts for Eaglemoss screw-ups that I didn’t discover until AFTER they were out of business, and more frustration that I can ever remember doing ANY project (work OR hobby)…I’m finally finished! A HUGE THANK YOU to you, and all the commentators here on your site! I would NOT have EVER finished without the excellent step-by-step you provided and the photos that guided me along the way. Is it perfect? Not even close. Plenty of gaps, some stuff that doesn’t fit exactly right, a few screws left off because I frankly got tired of looking not only for the correct screw, but finding alternates when the “correct” screw wasn’t so correct. But I finished it. **I** finished it…with all of your help! And now…FanHome has sucked me into the ’66 Batmobile….yeah…I’m a sucker for punishment…but, already, with just the first two kits, the instructions are already MILES ahead of where Eaglemoss EVER was! Thanks again…be well!

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