Final Thoughts

Of the many partworks I am building, this Eaglemoss 1:8 scale James Bond Aston Martin DB5 is the first one I have completely finished. And overall, I am very pleased with it. Technically, it was a fairly simple process with most of the 261 parts pre-assembled and held together by push-fit or the 261 screws (yes, the same number of both). While my experience was mostly positive, there were many frustrating moments mostly due to the order the parts were received in and some very tricky instructions.

I started my DB5 back in June of 2019, so it took just shy of two years to assemble. I believe this was Eaglemoss’ first partwork build-up as they acquired it after merging with GE Fabbri back in 2011. The DB5 has been re-released a few times since then, with all new magazines created in 2019, but the instructions were still lacking in clarity. I had to make many adjustments to make sense of them all, including combining them with the improved PDFs from 2013. Interestingly, the simplicity of the parts and the disorganization of the assembly instructions of the DB5 was showing its age as Eaglemoss’ following projects are noticeably better. Their later offerings have more steps, more parts, and those parts seem to arrive in a much more linear way.

I feel the 1965 Aston Martin DB5 is a beautiful, regal automobile full of classical charm and sporting a deeply storied history. Even with all of the complications expected of assembling this model, I decided it was still worth owning. If we then consider the inclusion of Q’s gluttony of spy gadgets from the film Goldfinger (1964), it just made this DB5 even better! Eaglemoss did their best to include these modifications in our model. Other than the ejector seat, everything works perfectly on mine, especially the electronics with all of the lights and sounds.

In the end, I had a great time completing the Eaglemoss DB5, and I want to thank all of my visitors who hung through this build with me. I hope sharing my experiences, tips, and tricks can help others get through their own DB5 builds in some small way. I am proud to have it in my display cabinet and look forward to building many more large-scale models!


As a special bonus for completing the DB5, inside the last magazine, Eaglemoss included this flyer with a loyalty code for FREE shipping on our next Die-Cast Club build-up subscription. If you want to build any other Eaglemoss model currently available in the USA, each of these images is a link to their respective sites:

9 thoughts on “Final Thoughts”

  1. Hello sir:

    Great videos to help us along….. I have been building this, and your help was much appreciated. I was going along and everything was working pretty good, until I came to the section to fit the front assembly to the main platform and windshield, the front would not do all the way even with the very bottom. like an 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch away from the bottom. I took the front assembly off several times but it still would not sit evenly.. Please help, if you can give me any advice as to what is going on thank you.

  2. I just completed my build this evening!! Thank you so much for the time and effort in putting this website together, the PDF’s and step by step build photos where invaluable!! I’m very impressed with the detail they put into this model.

    On that note ( attention to detail) where is the rest of the seat belt??? There is a nicely detailed buckle attached to the interior with a scale nylon belt………………. Then nothing???? No other end, no attachment point, no buckle at the other end??? It’s like they just forgot it? Is there an after market through Mike Lane or model mods to finish this loose end?? Would appreciate any help/ suggestions you may have

    Thanks
    John

    1. I looked everywhere I could and did not find an answer to this. The seat belt just hangs there as far as I can tell…

    2. Hello John

      This is Ray, did you notice my message regarding the problem I am having with the front end going down on the engine section? Any solutions, or did you encounter any issues? thank you.

      Ray

      1. Perhaps I missed it. I know getting the front end to fit down on the rest of the body was a long process for me too. I had to make sure the main body was fully seated on the dash, the windshield was flush, and the posts on either side were aligned. I didn’t do anything special, just messed with it until it popped into place.

  3. First off, let me thank you for all the help that your website provided me with this build. I started using the provided directions, and then I found your site. Once again, thank you.
    As to the model itself. I would give it a 6 out of 10. Fit issues being the major downfall. The rear side windows did not want to stay in, and I had to use a drop or two of superglue to make sure they stayed in place. Plus the wiring is a nightmare. I followed your advice and tested the lights before the final assembly, but now the lights aren’t working. I may go back and try and get the lights working at a later date, but right now, I am content to have it sit on the self looking pretty. The ejector seat was also difficult to install. I finally just took out the spring and installed the seat.
    It was a fun build, my first attempt at a larger scale car (I usually do 1/24 scale) and may do another large scale in the future. (As long as my wife says it’s ok.)
    Once again, thank you for the website and the help with this build.

  4. Thank you for such a thorough explanation of this kit. Truly amazing. I need some help if thats at all possible. . I recently purchased a fully constructed one of these . When I put the key in to activate the engine sound the key and ignition switch fell into the hole it was sitting in and into the back of the dashboard. And there it remains. In a prison of sorts. Slowly but surely it started to dawn on me that the only way of retrieving it is to dismantle the entire car!!!! Please can you or anyone here tell me that is not the case.and possibly tell me how it could be done. All other electrics are working. And the car is amazing. Happy to provide my email if your happy to give me yours. Regards from Australia.

    1. Thank you for your kind words! You would have to at least get the body off the chassis to get to the ignition switch. The alternative would be to add your own switch to the circuit board socket where the ignition switch plugs in. You would only have to undo Pack 85 to get at the PCB.

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